Roopkund-- An Amazing!! Beautiful!! Challenging!! and so the
crowded trek. This is one of the most famous treks of Uttrakhand and all the
important information is available on internet about the trek. Still, I am
giving some important information from my side.
It is said that, “If everything goes as per your plan, this
is good. But if not, even better because then God has plan for you and he is
always right”. In the same way, this trek was planned. We trekked
Nag Tibba in
Feb to fill up the gap because plan was to go in GHNP in Sept 18. But, we could
not resist ourselves to see the June’s beauty of Himalaya that we witnessed in
June 17 in our
Deo Tibba trek.
So, we
planned for Roopkund which was in our list since long. Looking at the
difficulty level, we decided to hire a guide for this trek, first time ever in
any Himalayan trek. We got a contact no. of a guide Mr. Krishna and Akshay done
the deal with him. Team was same as of Nag Tibba, Me (Keshaw), Akshay and
Vivek. Flights were booked well in advance but due to flight timing, we did not
book “Ranikhet Express” from Delhi to Kathgodam which is the most convenient
way to travel till Kathgodam. Our Delhi to Kathgodam journey was uncertain,
just as a last option; we booked a train from Delhi to Moradabad thinking that
rest of the journey will do in state bus.
Day 1: 26th May (Delhi – Haldwani - WAN)
On the morning of 25
th May 18, we got a message
from Air Aisa that our flight is delayed by 3 hours. With no options left, we
cancelled our train ticket and set our mind for uncertain journey from Delhi to
Kathgodam. I and Akshay boarded from PUNE and Vivek from Bangluru. Vivek
reached on time at 8.00PM to Delhi, but due to delay in flight, I and Akshay
landed at 11:45PM PM in Delhi. This was too late. We met with Vivek, booked a
cab till Anand Vihar (Which cost us 800 INR) and reached there at around 1:15 AM.
We enquired about bus to Haldwani (Haldwani and Kathgodam are kind of twin
cities only 5 km apart, so you can go anywhere). The bus started at 2.00 AM and
soon Akshay and Vivek captured a seat each and went on to sleep. Bus was almost
empty, I too took few naps and we reached Haldwani at around 10:30 AM. It was
too hot and we were looking into options for our further journey.
Here we came to know that there are no direct
buses from Haldwanai/Kathgodam to Lohajung/Wan. Bus is available only till
Deval and that too at 12:30 AM and 5:30 AM. So, we left only with one option,
hire a taxi which was too costly (6000 till WAN). My god, starting was not so
good and this made us clear that trek is going to be fantastic. Akshay called
Krishna and he gave a reference to book a taxi. When we enquired, luckily we
got a shared taxi. 3 trekkers were already there in taxi and we 3, so the fare
is shared between 6 of us and cost us 1000/head. Finally, our journey to WAN
started at 11:30 AM in Mahindra Bolero.
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| Waiting for Taxi at Haldwani Bus Stop (L to R: Me (Keshaw), Akshay and Cameraman Vivek |
As soon
as we left Kathgodam and headed towards Bhimtal, feel of lower Himalaya
started. I was cautious about nausea and preferred the front seat. Soon our
taxi stopped at a wonderful hotel. The view from the hotel was fantastic. We
preferred Kadi-Rice in lunch to be adjusted with the weather and local food. We
had little talk with our co-travelers. They were from Bangol and had the same
itinerary for the trek. We anticipated that we will cross many times during the
trek. We continued our journey via. Almoda and the route became more beautiful.
Taking breaks, exchanging seats, changing positions and looking the beautiful
route, we crossed Kausani, Gwaldam, Dewal, Lahajung and finally reached to WAN
at 10.00 PM in night.
Krishna
was waiting for us and he quickly arranged a small guest house kind of hotel.
It was already cold here and there were no hot water available. We quickly
cleaned ourselves in cold water and took a wonderful dinner which Krishna has
prepared. After little planning for the trek tomorrow, we went on to bed for
the mandatory rest.
Day 2: 27th May 18 (Wan to Bedni Bhugyal)
When we opened the gate of our room, aahh!!! Wan village is
no less than a hill station. Surrounded by the evergreen and never ending
beautiful hills, village is spread all around. Weather was just awesome and we
were looking at the beauty from our balcony.
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| Wan village, as seen from our balconey |
In a little while, Krishna came and arranged Tea and
Breakfast for us, hot Parathas. Our bags were ready, so after breakfast, we
captured a starting pic and followed Krishna.
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| Lets Start (L to R: Vivek, Akshay and Keshaw |
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| Near Forest Office |
He took us to the Laadu Maharaj
Temple which is the starting point of trek and the forest office also. Krishna
took all necessary permissions from forest, paid the taxes/fees and we started
our trek at 8:30 AM. Fee is per person per day.For Tent and Mule, you have to
pay extra. It was included in our package so not aware of the detail, but it
goes up to 7-8 hundred per person.
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| With Village's Kids |
Trek is gradual slop at this portion and green all around.
Many other trek groups were crossing us and village kids were welcoming us in
hope of Mithai (Sweets/Chocolates).
There are many sources of water on the
route so we kept minimum water with us unlike Nag Tibba. Crossing village, soon
we reached to a U-Turn.
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| At the U-Turn |
From here, you can see the WAN valley and Neel Ganaga
valley. After little rest, we started descending which continued till Neel
Ganga.
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| Starting Down Trek to Neel Ganga |
This took us to the feet of the next hill. Neel Ganga is a beautiful
small river and well respected in locals.
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| Neel Ganga. PC: Akshay |
From here, real trek started. A steep
zig-zag trek, doesn’t give you the opportunity to look around. A dense forest
and steep climb shift your focus on to balance yourself. I realized here that I
am not fully fit and feeling tired at every step, a big reason to worry. On the
way, we took Burans Juice and continued the trek. Akshay and Vivek were
comfortably trekking with Krishna and I was struggling.
At around 2:30 PM, we reached to
Ghairoli Pataal, which is a campsite and many trekkers camp here. But, our camp
was in Bedni Bhugyal. So, Krishna arranged wonderful lunch for us (Rajma Rice)
here and after little rest, we continued climbing.
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| Ghairoli Patal Campsite. We Stayed here in return |
This is again a steep climb
and was getting even more difficult for me. But, Krishna is a great motivator.
He keeps saying, “Sir Ji, thoda hi bacha hai, aap to aaram se kar loge” (Little
left, you will do it). So, in around one and half hour, I came out of the
forest and seen first and little glimpse of Bhugyal, a green hill top. This is
the best place to take little rest and look back the beauty of the down hills,
forest and to appreciate self. This is called “Doliya dhar” (May be misspelled
but something like that). Vivek was waiting for me and we sat together to see
the beautiful range together. Here you will see how much you have climbed in a
day. Trail to Neelganga, which we were on in the morning, was looking like a
line drawn with pencil. The mountain we crossed in the morning to reach Neel Ganga
was itself looking a tiny hill.
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| Dholiya Dhar |
After taking good rest, now the trail was
clearly visible till Bedni and it was almost flat trail of 1.5 km. I was little
comfortable now and soon reached to Bedni. Thanks to Krishna again who pitched
the Tent very near to trail and we did not have to go long way till Tent.
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| First Glimpse of Bedni Bhugyal |
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| Bedni Campsite |
Bedni is the best place of the
trek; a huge, lush green meadows. It was crowded but it is so large that you
won’t feel the crowd. You can walk for any calm place and sit in a peace
looking at the beauty of peaks and downhill forest.
Krishna served us soup and then we
roamed around the place, Akshay and Vivek were busy in taking photos and I was
resting. We had the best dinner of the trek here and went on to tent. Sleeping
bags were so nice that we slept comfortably.
Day 3: 28th May 18 (Bedni Bhugyal to Patar
Nachauni)
It was the most beautiful morning; weather was at its best.
After getting fresh and taking breakfast, we started to Bedni kund. A small
temple is built here as it is believed that Lord Brahma written “Ved” here.
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| Bedni Kund. PC: Akshay |
We
went little up and caught the trail to Patar Nachauni. Today, it was gradual
slop and clearly visible where we are going.
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| When Looked back to Bedni from the trail to Pathar Nachauni. |
During this trek, we reached to a
point where the hill range of the other side is visible. This is beautiful
place and we stayed here for a while. In some time we reached to Ghoda Lautni
(Horse Returning point). It is believed that in ancient time, when King Dhawan
trekked this route with his army and family, horses had to return from here.
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| Mount Trishul from Ghoda Lautani |
But, now horses go till bhagwabasa. So, this is not actually a “Ghoda Lautani”.
This is the place where you switch the side of the hill. You leave the Bedni
out of your eyesight and start looking for Patar Nachauni. This is little descending
trail which was pretty simple for me and we continued till our Tents without
break. It was an easy day and we reached to the destination at around 1.30 PM.
Thanks again to Krishna, he arranged our stay in Green Huts and we did not have
to go down campsite. Going down was easy but it would have added an hour extra
in our next day trek.
Here, there is a network point where your Airtel and
Vodafone networks are available. We used this opportunity to talk to our
families and let them know that we are still alive. Right side meadows and the
ranges are beautiful. Mt. Trishool and Nanda Ghanti is just awesome. If weather
is clear, you can see Choukhamba as well, we saw it in back trek. You can click
anywhere and you will get a wonderful picture and memory.
The story of this
place is that, King Dhawan, on a pilgrimage to Nanda Devi, stayed at this
place. He was traveling with his army, family with pregnant queen and few
dancers. The King was arrogant and forgot about the aim of pilgrimage. He
ordered dancers to perform dance but, Nanda Devi cursed the King and turned all
dancing girls into rocks – thus the name Pathar Nachauni (Rock Dancers).
As a routine, Krishna served us Soup and then dinner in the
night. We have got ample amount of time here so roamed around, clicked pictures
and then after a lot of gossip, went in our sleeping bags. Night is always the
most difficult time of the trek, almost 10 hours in tent is boring.
Day 4: 29th May 18 (Patar Nachauni to Bhagwabasa)
This was the most comfortable night of the trek. We stayed
in green hut which was specious and stable. No outside noise and comparatively
less cold inside. I was thinking, how I will climb today. The reason was; one
can see the entire route from the campsite and believe me, it is too steep; at
least it looks like. Kelwa Vinayak is at the top of the hill and you can see
from your camp at Pather nachauni.
Today, there was no flat patch unlike
yesterday, oxygen level was low and I was already struggling with low energy
level. Krishna again encouraged me, “Sir, Kelwa Vinayak se dhalan hai next camp
tak” (There is descent slop till next camp after Kelwa Vinayak). So, I
collected all my energy and started trek after taking little breakfast. Akshay
and Vivek followed me and as usual, Krishna said, “Aap log chalo mai aata hu”
(You start, I will come soon). We knew he will catch us in no time. Till now, I
have set my speed to 1 km/hr. So, when Krishna said, it is only 6 km, I
calculated that I will reach by 2.00 PM as I left at 8.00 AM. More than the
front, back side is beautiful in this trail. So, on every stop, we used to sit
and look back. Route was visible and so everyone at their positions. Akshay
walked with me little bit and then he crossed me and went ahead with Krishna. I
was trekking with Vivek as we both were in almost same physical condition.
Yesterday, we had
noticed few foreigners coming on mountain bicycles but not riding. We were
wondering how they manage to carry bicycle where we are not able to walk. What
they will do on this narrow-rocky trail? Today, we witnessed their skill,
courage and passion for mountain biking. They were riding on the edges of the
trail, that too very fast, sometimes; even out of the trail that takes your
breath away.
This trail is little narrow and hence crowded too.
Weather was all good with little sun shine and
cool breezes. So, looking at the beautiful ranges and gossiping with Vivek, we
reached Kelwa Vinayak at around 12.00 PM. Kelwa Vinayak is a beautiful peak.
You can see Pathar nachauni at back, Bhagwabasa at other side, Roopkund too and
all the beautiful Himalyan ranges.
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| Kelwa Vinayak |
It is believed that
the Ganesha Statue here is not man made but it is built naturally of black
stone, hence the name Kalwa Vinayak (Black Ganesha). The other story is, this
is the birth place of Ganesha. When Parvati was going for bath in Roopkund,
there was no security person. She created Ganesha with stone and asked him to
stop anyone coming beyond that point. When Lord Shiva came, Ganesha stopped him
and the famous story of beheading Ganesha by Mahadeva.
Day 5: 30th May 18 (Bhagwabasa to Roopkund and
back to Patar Nachauni)
It was 3.00AM in the morning when Krishna came and asked us
to get ready.
Vivek got normal today and
in dilemma weather to go for summit or not. I and Akshay got ready and
meanwhile, Vivek too made his mind and got ready for the summit. After little
breakfast, we lined up with other groups and started our trek. Krinsha and his
uncle were the experts and giving instructions for almost everything. We were
feeling like going to Mount Everest. In half an hour or so, I started feeling
exhausted due to less oxygen. Soon, I felt this trek little difficult for me
and I did not want to create problems for the group. So, I decided to go back.
It was a major upset for me, but it was the best decision. I realized later,
rather than risking the life. After all, I am a father of a kid
J.
I went back in tent and slept. I woke up at
8:30AM and team came back at 9.00 AM.
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| On the Way to RoopKund |
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| At RoopKund lake. L to R: Krishna, Vivek and Akshay |
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| Trekkers moving slowly to final destination |
Akshay and Vivek briefed me about Roopkund. As
per them, “It was your good decision to
come back, your floaters may have not worked. We used crampon to trek on snow
and it was almost no oxygen zone. Many groups were carrying oxygen cylinders
for emergency. The last patch was very hard and risky as one has to climb on
snow at the angle of 45 degree. However, the destination is just awesome and
sense of achievement makes it even the best. The lake was almost frozen but we
could see some bones (Not skeletons). Coming down is even more risky as you can
see the deep valley at your front and you can imagine what would happen if you
slip.” I realized that unlike my other Himalyan treks, it would have not
been possible without the support of Krishna. Specially, summit day is not at
all possible without an expert guidance, until you are an expert trekker and
have all required equipment.
At 10.00AM, I looked back to Roopkund from the base, the
snowcapped peaks, beauty of Bhagwabasa and started back trek. This was little ascending
trail till Kelwa Vinayak and then steep down trek. This was the other reason I
avoided Roopkund in the morning as I knew we will be going back till Pathar
Nachauni on the same day. So, leading the team and enjoying the down trek, we
reached Pathar Nachauni at around 1.00 PM. Again the same Green Hut, same
network point and known surroundings. After lunch, we used rest of the time in
discussing Bollywood songs and Cricket.
Day 6: 31st May 18 (Patar Nachauni –Bedni-Ali
Bhugyal to Ghairoli Pataal)
Physical conditions were getting back to normal for everyone
and we knew the way back. After having Chhole-Bature in breakfast, we started
our back trek and the destination was Ghairoli Patal. What exiting us was the
Ali Bhugyal which we missed intentionally while coming. I started little early
and soon Akshay came with me. At our left side, we noticed a shepherd hut deep
down the hill. Wonder, how local people live here for weeks comfortably and
happily without any emergency support and that too handling and running behind
hundreds of sheep and goats.
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| A Random Click near Ghoda Lautni. |
Soon we reached to Ghoda Lautani and took a little
rest, meanwhile Vivek and Krishna joined us. Vivek was busy in photography; I
and Akshay were discussing about the trek. In an hour or so, we reached to a
point where we could see the Ali Bhugyal. This was just an awesome moment.
Bedni
bhugyal was at our right, little
behind and Ali bhugyal was at our left, little ahead.
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| Ali Bhugyal, captured by Akshay |
Taking pictures of this
beautiful place, we reached to the down hut. At this time, only we four people
and Krinshna’s uncle’s group were there totaling eight people. Krishna called
the shopkeeper and arranged Samosa for us. We laid down on the grass and
refreshed ourselves. After an hour, we started down trek to the destination.
Dense forest started again, birds chirping started again which we were missing
since last few days. It is a steep down trail, not in very good condition and
would be risky if it is raining. At around 3.00 PM, we reached at Gharoli
Patal. Krishna again arranged the lunch at only hotel. Rest of the time we went
into jungle and enjoyed the silence along with little photography by Vivek.
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| In to the wild |
In the evening, after dinner, we were about to enjoy the
last planned activity of the trek. Krishna again arranged the woods and started
campfire. Krishna’s uncle’s group of Bangoli boys joined us. We shared our
experiences with them of our other treks and got the info about other treks
which they had done. Slowly, people started going in their tents for rest and
it was only me at 10.00PM who was managing the fire. I had no hurry to go for
rest so I again collected little woods and kept the fire on till 12.00 AM.
Sitting alone near fire in dark night in the dense forest is little scary but
memorable experience. I was trying hard to see in dark, whenever there is any
sound on trees of night creatures. Woods were finished and I had no courage to
again collect them in dark night, so finally I too went in tent.
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| Campfire with Bangoli Co-Trekkers |
Day 7: 01st Jun 18 (Ghairoli Pataal to WAN)
As usual, the last day of trek is always become the boring
day. We even did not bother about the breakfast and started our trek at 8.00AM.
Villagers were coming up with their pet animals and we were crossing them
frequently which made our trek slow. It was all down trek till Neel Ganga and
we reached there by around 10.00AM.
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| Neel Ganga |
After little rest and photography, we
started the last uphill trek and soon reached to U-Turn. From here, we started
down trek till Wan and reached in hotel at around 12.00 PM. We were lucky that
reached the hotel on time. As soon as we entered, it was heavily raining.
We started our urban activities of getting fresh, wearing
good cloths and choosing food. After
lunch, we started planning our return travel, arranging taxi and bargaining for
everything which we had almost forgot in last 6 days. Finally, everything
planned and after dinner, it was going to be the best rest after a week.
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| If you wish to Contact Krishna. No better guide you will get than him, believe me. |
Day 8: 02nd Jun 18 (Wan to Deval to Kathgodam)
Getting back from Wan to Kathgodam is not easy. There is bus
from Wan to Deval but not regular. This service was closed and hence, we had to
hire a taxi from Wan to Deval. For 40km, we have to pay INR-2000. But, this
route is awesome. It was little raining and we were enjoying the return journey
too which was unusual. Wild hen, deer, fox and monkeys were the most seen wild
animals during this journey. We reached Deval before 8.00AM. From Deval, buses
are available but we preferred to go for shared taxi and booked middle seat.
Again, from Deval to Almora, route is just fantastic. If you are lucky enough
and your driver is slow, you will enjoy the journey. We had lunch in Almora and
reached Kathgodam in evening 5.00PM. After little search, we booked Hotel Satyarth
near station which was good in 1000 INR/night, except room service. We went in
local market, had dinner and then back in hotel for rest.
Day 9&10: 03&04 Jun 18: (Rest in Kathgodam and back
to Delhi to PUNE)
Today was the rest day in Kathgodam. We used this
opportunity to go in a mall in Haldwani and booked a movie ticket for “Parmanu
– a story of Pokhran”. What could be better if an awesome trek ends with a
super movie like Parmanu. Rest of the day we used in photo sharing and
gossiping, tomorrow was the scheduled return journey.
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| Kathgodam Railway Station. |
Next day, we boarded in
morning train and came back to Delhi at 11:30AM. It was too hot in Delhi and
you feel even more when you come back from heaven. We tried to maximize our
journey in Delhi Metro and reached to IGI airport in evening. I and Akshay said
good bye to Vivek and returned back to PUNE by midnight. This was the end of a
fantastic and unforgettable trek.
Few Notes:
1. Believe me; if you are not going with any organization like India Hike etc., getting to the base village WAN and returning from there is not easy. There is no direct bus from Kathgodam / Haldwani. You have to go till Deval (Bus is rare) and have to find the shared taxi till WAN. You may have to hire a private taxi if you don’t get shared taxi, which will be costly. In returning also, direct bus run from WAN to Deval but not reliable. When we visited, the bus service from WAN was closed temporary and we have to hire a private taxi from WAN to Deval and then shared taxi from Deval to Kathgodam. Total cost was 2000 from WAN to Deval and 500/head from Deval to Kathgodam.
2. For sure, this trek is not for beginners. I put this trek in difficult category (moderate for expert trekkers) due to the height you will gain on Day 1.
3. India Hikes is doing a wonderful job to maintain the cleanliness on this trek. They not only pick their own waste, but hunt for the garbage with the help of locals and get all the garbage back to base village on their mules. Hats off to India Hikes.
4. The route is well defined from WAN village. Hotels are available on every camp site (Ghairoli Patal, Bedni Bhugyal, Pathar Nachauni and Bhaguwabasa) and you can get food like maggi, eggs, omelet etc. You may also get rice-dal but depend on the availability (Preference is given to the trekkers with local guide as local guide inform the hotel owner well in advance). So, this trek can be done without a guide, but only if you have practiced to carry your own tent, good quality sleeping bags along with your bagpack. Also, last day when you trek to Roopkund lake, some expertise will be need for the Summit like crampon etc. A guide might be needed there, or you have to follow any group.
5. There is one route from WAN-Ghairoli Pataal-Bedni and one from Lohjung-Didina-Bedni. Both are common after Bedani Bhugyal.
PLEASE DO NOT POLLUTE THE PLACE, IT IS BEAUTIFUL AND LET IT BE BEAUTIFUL. PLEASE, PLEASE TAKE BACK YOUR PLASTIC WRAPPERS BACK TO DEHRADUN, DO NOT LITTER PLASTIC THERE.
--Keshaw Patel
