Roopkund Trek

Roopkund-- An Amazing!! Beautiful!! Challenging!! and so the crowded trek. This is one of the most famous treks of Uttrakhand and all the important information is available on internet about the trek. Still, I am giving some important information from my side.

It is said that, “If everything goes as per your plan, this is good. But if not, even better because then God has plan for you and he is always right”. In the same way, this trek was planned. We trekked Nag Tibba in Feb to fill up the gap because plan was to go in GHNP in Sept 18. But, we could not resist ourselves to see the June’s beauty of Himalaya that we witnessed in June 17 in our Deo Tibba trek.  So, we planned for Roopkund which was in our list since long. Looking at the difficulty level, we decided to hire a guide for this trek, first time ever in any Himalayan trek. We got a contact no. of a guide Mr. Krishna and Akshay done the deal with him. Team was same as of Nag Tibba, Me (Keshaw), Akshay and Vivek. Flights were booked well in advance but due to flight timing, we did not book “Ranikhet Express” from Delhi to Kathgodam which is the most convenient way to travel till Kathgodam. Our Delhi to Kathgodam journey was uncertain, just as a last option; we booked a train from Delhi to Moradabad thinking that rest of the journey will do in state bus.

Day 1: 26^th May (Delhi – Haldwani - WAN)

On the morning of 25^th May 18, we got a message from Air Aisa that our flight is delayed by 3 hours. With no options left, we cancelled our train ticket and set our mind for uncertain journey from Delhi to Kathgodam. I and Akshay boarded from PUNE and Vivek from Bangluru. Vivek reached on time at 8.00PM to Delhi, but due to delay in flight, I and Akshay landed at 11:45PM PM in Delhi. This was too late. We met with Vivek, booked a cab till Anand Vihar (Which cost us 800 INR) and reached there at around 1:15 AM. We enquired about bus to Haldwani (Haldwani and Kathgodam are kind of twin cities only 5 km apart, so you can go anywhere). The bus started at 2.00 AM and soon Akshay and Vivek captured a seat each and went on to sleep. Bus was almost empty, I too took few naps and we reached Haldwani at around 10:30 AM. It was too hot and we were looking into options for our further journey.  Here we came to know that there are no direct buses from Haldwanai/Kathgodam to Lohajung/Wan. Bus is available only till Deval and that too at 12:30 AM and 5:30 AM. So, we left only with one option, hire a taxi which was too costly (6000 till WAN). My god, starting was not so good and this made us clear that trek is going to be fantastic. Akshay called Krishna and he gave a reference to book a taxi. When we enquired, luckily we got a shared taxi. 3 trekkers were already there in taxi and we 3, so the fare is shared between 6 of us and cost us 1000/head. Finally, our journey to WAN started at 11:30 AM in Mahindra Bolero.

Waiting for Taxi at Haldwani Bus Stop (L to R: Me (Keshaw), Akshay and Cameraman Vivek

                As soon as we left Kathgodam and headed towards Bhimtal, feel of lower Himalaya started. I was cautious about nausea and preferred the front seat. Soon our taxi stopped at a wonderful hotel. The view from the hotel was fantastic. We preferred Kadi-Rice in lunch to be adjusted with the weather and local food. We had little talk with our co-travelers. They were from Bangol and had the same itinerary for the trek. We anticipated that we will cross many times during the trek. We continued our journey via. Almoda and the route became more beautiful. Taking breaks, exchanging seats, changing positions and looking the beautiful route, we crossed Kausani, Gwaldam, Dewal, Lahajung and finally reached to WAN at 10.00 PM in night.

                Krishna was waiting for us and he quickly arranged a small guest house kind of hotel. It was already cold here and there were no hot water available. We quickly cleaned ourselves in cold water and took a wonderful dinner which Krishna has prepared. After little planning for the trek tomorrow, we went on to bed for the mandatory rest.

Day 2: 27^th May 18 (Wan to Bedni Bhugyal)

When we opened the gate of our room, aahh!!! Wan village is no less than a hill station. Surrounded by the evergreen and never ending beautiful hills, village is spread all around. Weather was just awesome and we were looking at the beauty from our balcony.

Wan village, as seen from our balconey 

In a little while, Krishna came and arranged Tea and Breakfast for us, hot Parathas. Our bags were ready, so after breakfast, we captured a starting pic and followed Krishna.

Lets Start (L to R: Vivek, Akshay and Keshaw

Near Forest Office

He took us to the Laadu Maharaj Temple which is the starting point of trek and the forest office also. Krishna took all necessary permissions from forest, paid the taxes/fees and we started our trek at 8:30 AM. Fee is per person per day.For Tent and Mule, you have to pay extra. It was included in our package so not aware of the detail, but it goes up to 7-8 hundred per person.

With Village's Kids

Trek is gradual slop at this portion and green all around. Many other trek groups were crossing us and village kids were welcoming us in hope of Mithai (Sweets/Chocolates).
       There are many sources of water on the route so we kept minimum water with us unlike Nag Tibba. Crossing village, soon we reached to a U-Turn.

At the U-Turn

From here, you can see the WAN valley and Neel Ganaga valley. After little rest, we started descending which continued till Neel Ganga.

Starting Down Trek to Neel Ganga

This took us to the feet of the next hill. Neel Ganga is a beautiful small river and well respected in locals.

Neel Ganga. PC: Akshay

From here, real trek started. A steep zig-zag trek, doesn’t give you the opportunity to look around. A dense forest and steep climb shift your focus on to balance yourself. I realized here that I am not fully fit and feeling tired at every step, a big reason to worry. On the way, we took Burans Juice and continued the trek. Akshay and Vivek were comfortably trekking with Krishna and I was struggling.

At around 2:30 PM, we reached to Ghairoli Pataal, which is a campsite and many trekkers camp here. But, our camp was in Bedni Bhugyal. So, Krishna arranged wonderful lunch for us (Rajma Rice) here and after little rest, we continued climbing.

Ghairoli Patal Campsite. We Stayed here in return

This is again a steep climb and was getting even more difficult for me. But, Krishna is a great motivator. He keeps saying, “Sir Ji, thoda hi bacha hai, aap to aaram se kar loge” (Little left, you will do it). So, in around one and half hour, I came out of the forest and seen first and little glimpse of Bhugyal, a green hill top. This is the best place to take little rest and look back the beauty of the down hills, forest and to appreciate self. This is called “Doliya dhar” (May be misspelled but something like that). Vivek was waiting for me and we sat together to see the beautiful range together. Here you will see how much you have climbed in a day. Trail to Neelganga, which we were on in the morning, was looking like a line drawn with pencil. The mountain we crossed in the morning to reach Neel Ganga was itself looking a tiny hill.

Dholiya Dhar

After taking good rest, now the trail was clearly visible till Bedni and it was almost flat trail of 1.5 km. I was little comfortable now and soon reached to Bedni. Thanks to Krishna again who pitched the Tent very near to trail and we did not have to go long way till Tent.

First Glimpse of Bedni Bhugyal

Bedni Campsite

Bedni is the best place of the trek; a huge, lush green meadows. It was crowded but it is so large that you won’t feel the crowd. You can walk for any calm place and sit in a peace looking at the beauty of peaks and downhill forest.

Krishna served us soup and then we roamed around the place, Akshay and Vivek were busy in taking photos and I was resting. We had the best dinner of the trek here and went on to tent. Sleeping bags were so nice that we slept comfortably.

Day 3: 28^th May 18 (Bedni Bhugyal to Patar Nachauni)

It was the most beautiful morning; weather was at its best. After getting fresh and taking breakfast, we started to Bedni kund. A small temple is built here as it is believed that Lord Brahma written “Ved” here.

Bedni Kund. PC: Akshay

We went little up and caught the trail to Patar Nachauni. Today, it was gradual slop and clearly visible where we are going.

When Looked back to Bedni from the trail to Pathar Nachauni.

During this trek, we reached to a point where the hill range of the other side is visible. This is beautiful place and we stayed here for a while. In some time we reached to Ghoda Lautni (Horse Returning point). It is believed that in ancient time, when King Dhawan trekked this route with his army and family, horses had to return from here.

Mount Trishul from Ghoda Lautani

But, now horses go till bhagwabasa. So, this is not actually a “Ghoda Lautani”. This is the place where you switch the side of the hill. You leave the Bedni out of your eyesight and start looking for Patar Nachauni. This is little descending trail which was pretty simple for me and we continued till our Tents without break. It was an easy day and we reached to the destination at around 1.30 PM. Thanks again to Krishna, he arranged our stay in Green Huts and we did not have to go down campsite. Going down was easy but it would have added an hour extra in our next day trek.

Here, there is a network point where your Airtel and Vodafone networks are available. We used this opportunity to talk to our families and let them know that we are still alive. Right side meadows and the ranges are beautiful. Mt. Trishool and Nanda Ghanti is just awesome. If weather is clear, you can see Choukhamba as well, we saw it in back trek. You can click anywhere and you will get a wonderful picture and memory.

The story of this place is that, King Dhawan, on a pilgrimage to Nanda Devi, stayed at this place. He was traveling with his army, family with pregnant queen and few dancers. The King was arrogant and forgot about the aim of pilgrimage. He ordered dancers to perform dance but, Nanda Devi cursed the King and turned all dancing girls into rocks – thus the name Pathar Nachauni (Rock Dancers).

As a routine, Krishna served us Soup and then dinner in the night. We have got ample amount of time here so roamed around, clicked pictures and then after a lot of gossip, went in our sleeping bags. Night is always the most difficult time of the trek, almost 10 hours in tent is boring. 

Day 4: 29^th May 18 (Patar Nachauni to Bhagwabasa)

This was the most comfortable night of the trek. We stayed in green hut which was specious and stable. No outside noise and comparatively less cold inside. I was thinking, how I will climb today. The reason was; one can see the entire route from the campsite and believe me, it is too steep; at least it looks like. Kelwa Vinayak is at the top of the hill and you can see from your camp at Pather nachauni.

Today, there was no flat patch unlike yesterday, oxygen level was low and I was already struggling with low energy level. Krishna again encouraged me, “Sir, Kelwa Vinayak se dhalan hai next camp tak” (There is descent slop till next camp after Kelwa Vinayak). So, I collected all my energy and started trek after taking little breakfast. Akshay and Vivek followed me and as usual, Krishna said, “Aap log chalo mai aata hu” (You start, I will come soon). We knew he will catch us in no time. Till now, I have set my speed to 1 km/hr. So, when Krishna said, it is only 6 km, I calculated that I will reach by 2.00 PM as I left at 8.00 AM. More than the front, back side is beautiful in this trail. So, on every stop, we used to sit and look back. Route was visible and so everyone at their positions. Akshay walked with me little bit and then he crossed me and went ahead with Krishna. I was trekking with Vivek as we both were in almost same physical condition.

Yesterday, we had noticed few foreigners coming on mountain bicycles but not riding. We were wondering how they manage to carry bicycle where we are not able to walk. What they will do on this narrow-rocky trail? Today, we witnessed their skill, courage and passion for mountain biking. They were riding on the edges of the trail, that too very fast, sometimes; even out of the trail that takes your breath away.

This trail is little narrow and hence crowded too.  Weather was all good with little sun shine and cool breezes. So, looking at the beautiful ranges and gossiping with Vivek, we reached Kelwa Vinayak at around 12.00 PM. Kelwa Vinayak is a beautiful peak. You can see Pathar nachauni at back, Bhagwabasa at other side, Roopkund too and all the beautiful Himalyan ranges.

Kelwa Vinayak

It is believed that the Ganesha Statue here is not man made but it is built naturally of black stone, hence the name Kalwa Vinayak (Black Ganesha). The other story is, this is the birth place of Ganesha. When Parvati was going for bath in Roopkund, there was no security person. She created Ganesha with stone and asked him to stop anyone coming beyond that point. When Lord Shiva came, Ganesha stopped him and the famous story of beheading Ganesha by Mahadeva.

We stopped for a while, but the place got crowded soon so we started the down trek and in no time, we reached at the campsite Bhagwabasa. This is again a beautiful rocky campsite but very less space to camp. Tent were already pitched and Krishna given us choice to select the Tent. We selected one and unloaded ourselves. In short time, Krishna arranged us Lunch in our tent. Vivek was not feeling well and he did not eat anything. We discussed on all possibilities and Vivek decided not to go to RoopKund summit. We had to start early at 3.00 AM tomorrow, so we went on rest early. Night was horrible for me and probably for others too. We were tired; body was not accepting the food and could not sleep properly due to less oxygen.

Mount Nanda Ghanti (Snow Capped)

Bhagwabasa Campsite

Enjoying Snow From Tent

Day 5: 30^th May 18 (Bhagwabasa to Roopkund and back to Patar Nachauni)

It was 3.00AM in the morning when Krishna came and asked us to get ready.  Vivek got normal today and in dilemma weather to go for summit or not. I and Akshay got ready and meanwhile, Vivek too made his mind and got ready for the summit. After little breakfast, we lined up with other groups and started our trek. Krinsha and his uncle were the experts and giving instructions for almost everything. We were feeling like going to Mount Everest. In half an hour or so, I started feeling exhausted due to less oxygen. Soon, I felt this trek little difficult for me and I did not want to create problems for the group. So, I decided to go back. It was a major upset for me, but it was the best decision. I realized later, rather than risking the life. After all, I am a father of a kidJ.  I went back in tent and slept. I woke up at 8:30AM and team came back at 9.00 AM.

On the Way to RoopKund

At RoopKund lake. L to R: Krishna, Vivek and Akshay

Trekkers moving slowly to final destination

          Akshay and Vivek briefed me about Roopkund. As per them, “It was your good decision to come back, your floaters may have not worked. We used crampon to trek on snow and it was almost no oxygen zone. Many groups were carrying oxygen cylinders for emergency. The last patch was very hard and risky as one has to climb on snow at the angle of 45 degree. However, the destination is just awesome and sense of achievement makes it even the best. The lake was almost frozen but we could see some bones (Not skeletons). Coming down is even more risky as you can see the deep valley at your front and you can imagine what would happen if you slip.” I realized that unlike my other Himalyan treks, it would have not been possible without the support of Krishna. Specially, summit day is not at all possible without an expert guidance, until you are an expert trekker and have all required equipment.

         At 10.00AM, I looked back to Roopkund from the base, the snowcapped peaks, beauty of Bhagwabasa and started back trek. This was little ascending trail till Kelwa Vinayak and then steep down trek. This was the other reason I avoided Roopkund in the morning as I knew we will be going back till Pathar Nachauni on the same day. So, leading the team and enjoying the down trek, we reached Pathar Nachauni at around 1.00 PM. Again the same Green Hut, same network point and known surroundings. After lunch, we used rest of the time in discussing Bollywood songs and Cricket. 

Day 6: 31^st May 18 (Patar Nachauni –Bedni-Ali Bhugyal to Ghairoli Pataal)

Physical conditions were getting back to normal for everyone and we knew the way back. After having Chhole-Bature in breakfast, we started our back trek and the destination was Ghairoli Patal. What exiting us was the Ali Bhugyal which we missed intentionally while coming. I started little early and soon Akshay came with me. At our left side, we noticed a shepherd hut deep down the hill. Wonder, how local people live here for weeks comfortably and happily without any emergency support and that too handling and running behind hundreds of sheep and goats.

A Random Click near Ghoda Lautni.

 Soon we reached to Ghoda Lautani and took a little rest, meanwhile Vivek and Krishna joined us. Vivek was busy in photography; I and Akshay were discussing about the trek. In an hour or so, we reached to a point where we could see the Ali Bhugyal. This was just an awesome moment. Bedni  bhugyal was at our right, little behind and Ali bhugyal was at our left, little ahead.

Ali Bhugyal, captured by Akshay

 Taking pictures of this beautiful place, we reached to the down hut. At this time, only we four people and Krinshna’s uncle’s group were there totaling eight people. Krishna called the shopkeeper and arranged Samosa for us. We laid down on the grass and refreshed ourselves. After an hour, we started down trek to the destination. Dense forest started again, birds chirping started again which we were missing since last few days. It is a steep down trail, not in very good condition and would be risky if it is raining. At around 3.00 PM, we reached at Gharoli Patal. Krishna again arranged the lunch at only hotel. Rest of the time we went into jungle and enjoyed the silence along with little photography by Vivek.

In to the wild

In the evening, after dinner, we were about to enjoy the last planned activity of the trek. Krishna again arranged the woods and started campfire. Krishna’s uncle’s group of Bangoli boys joined us. We shared our experiences with them of our other treks and got the info about other treks which they had done. Slowly, people started going in their tents for rest and it was only me at 10.00PM who was managing the fire. I had no hurry to go for rest so I again collected little woods and kept the fire on till 12.00 AM. Sitting alone near fire in dark night in the dense forest is little scary but memorable experience. I was trying hard to see in dark, whenever there is any sound on trees of night creatures. Woods were finished and I had no courage to again collect them in dark night, so finally I too went in tent.    

Campfire with Bangoli Co-Trekkers

Day 7: 01^st Jun 18 (Ghairoli Pataal to WAN)

As usual, the last day of trek is always become the boring day. We even did not bother about the breakfast and started our trek at 8.00AM. Villagers were coming up with their pet animals and we were crossing them frequently which made our trek slow. It was all down trek till Neel Ganga and we reached there by around 10.00AM.

Neel Ganga

 After little rest and photography, we started the last uphill trek and soon reached to U-Turn. From here, we started down trek till Wan and reached in hotel at around 12.00 PM. We were lucky that reached the hotel on time. As soon as we entered, it was heavily raining.

We started our urban activities of getting fresh, wearing good cloths and choosing food.  After lunch, we started planning our return travel, arranging taxi and bargaining for everything which we had almost forgot in last 6 days. Finally, everything planned and after dinner, it was going to be the best rest after a week.

If you wish to Contact Krishna. No better guide you will get than him, believe me.

Day 8: 02^nd Jun 18 (Wan to Deval to Kathgodam)

Getting back from Wan to Kathgodam is not easy. There is bus from Wan to Deval but not regular. This service was closed and hence, we had to hire a taxi from Wan to Deval. For 40km, we have to pay INR-2000. But, this route is awesome. It was little raining and we were enjoying the return journey too which was unusual. Wild hen, deer, fox and monkeys were the most seen wild animals during this journey. We reached Deval before 8.00AM. From Deval, buses are available but we preferred to go for shared taxi and booked middle seat. Again, from Deval to Almora, route is just fantastic. If you are lucky enough and your driver is slow, you will enjoy the journey. We had lunch in Almora and reached Kathgodam in evening 5.00PM. After little search, we booked Hotel Satyarth near station which was good in 1000 INR/night, except room service. We went in local market, had dinner and then back in hotel for rest.

Day 9&10: 03&04 Jun 18: (Rest in Kathgodam and back to Delhi to PUNE)

Today was the rest day in Kathgodam. We used this opportunity to go in a mall in Haldwani and booked a movie ticket for “Parmanu – a story of Pokhran”. What could be better if an awesome trek ends with a super movie like Parmanu. Rest of the day we used in photo sharing and gossiping, tomorrow was the scheduled return journey.

Kathgodam Railway Station.

Next day, we boarded in morning train and came back to Delhi at 11:30AM. It was too hot in Delhi and you feel even more when you come back from heaven. We tried to maximize our journey in Delhi Metro and reached to IGI airport in evening. I and Akshay said good bye to Vivek and returned back to PUNE by midnight. This was the end of a fantastic and unforgettable trek.

Few Notes:

1.   Believe me; if you are not going with any organization like India Hike etc., getting to the base village WAN and returning from there is not easy. There is no direct bus from Kathgodam / Haldwani. You have to go till Deval (Bus is rare) and have to find the shared taxi till WAN. You may have to hire a private taxi if you don’t get shared taxi, which will be costly. In returning also, direct bus run from WAN to Deval but not reliable. When we visited, the bus service from WAN was closed temporary and we have to hire a private taxi from WAN to Deval and then shared taxi from Deval to Kathgodam. Total cost was 2000 from WAN to Deval and 500/head from Deval to Kathgodam.

2.     For sure, this trek is not for beginners. I put this trek in difficult category (moderate for expert trekkers) due to the height you will gain on Day 1. 

3.     India Hikes is doing a wonderful job to maintain the cleanliness on this trek. They not only pick their own waste, but hunt for the garbage with the help of locals and get all the garbage back to base village on their mules. Hats off to India Hikes.

4.    The route is well defined from WAN village. Hotels are available on every camp site (Ghairoli Patal, Bedni Bhugyal, Pathar Nachauni and Bhaguwabasa) and you can get food like maggi, eggs, omelet etc. You may also get rice-dal but depend on the availability (Preference is given to the trekkers with local guide as local guide inform the hotel owner well in advance).  So, this trek can be done without a guide, but only if you have practiced to carry your own tent, good quality sleeping bags along with your bagpack. Also, last day when you trek to Roopkund lake, some expertise will be need for the Summit like crampon etc. A guide might be needed there, or you have to follow any group.

5.    There is one route from WAN-Ghairoli Pataal-Bedni and one from Lohjung-Didina-Bedni. Both are common after Bedani Bhugyal.

       PLEASE DO NOT POLLUTE THE PLACE, IT IS BEAUTIFUL AND LET IT BE BEAUTIFUL. PLEASE, PLEASE TAKE BACK YOUR PLASTIC WRAPPERS BACK TO DEHRADUN, DO NOT LITTER PLASTIC THERE.

--Keshaw Patel

Nag Tibba Trek

Preparation:

Well, this trek was not in list. After our DeoTibba trek in June 17, I visited Thirthan Valley in Oct 17. Amazed with the beauty of the valley, going up on high altitude in this range was trickling in my mind since then. When I started collecting information on trek in this region of Himachal, I got to know about trek in Great Himalayan National Park (Rakhundi Pass). The best season to go there was September-October. So we had to wait for almost a year which was absolutely difficult for us. To fill the gap, I looked for a short Himalayan Trek in Feb-March. This is when we found and decided to trek Nag Tibba.

Jassi dropped off due to personal reasons. From our PUNE trekking team, Vivek joined us first time for Himalayan trek. So, the team was me (Keshaw), Akshay and Vivek. We booked the return tickets from PUNE to Delhi and Delhi to Dehradun.

Day 1 and 2: 22^ndand 23^rdFeb 18 (Pune-Delhi-Dehradun-Pantwari) – TRAVEL DAY

In Jan, Vivek had shifted to Bangalore and he had to come to Pune as our prebooked flight was from PUNE.  

L to R: Akshay, Vivek and Me (Keshaw), leaving from home

At Airport, ready to fly

We left at almost right time from PUNE and reached Delhi at around 9 PM. Dinner was served in the Air India flight, so we directly went to Metro and boarded for New Delhi. From New Delhi Railway station, we boarded in Train for Dehradun and went to sleep.

Train was on schedule and we reached Dehradun at around 5:30 AM. After getting fresh up in railway waiting room, we went on to Bus stop which is besides railway station. Direct bus to Nayan Bag was at 8 AM and we wanted to break our journey to avoid sickness (Learning from Har Ki Dun Trek), so we booked seats in Dehradun-Masuri bus which was at 7.15 am. Please note that there are two routes from Dehradun to Masuri, one take you to Library Chowk (Usually buses going beyond Masuri) and other take you to Picture Palace (Usually last stop for busses). Cost per person till Masuri was 60 Rs and distance is around 35 Km from Dehradun to Masuri.

And we boarded in a wrong bus which dropped us on Picture Palace.

When I got down and asked for the bus to Nayan Bag, one old man said, “Sab Ji aap galat aa gaye” (You came at wrong place). The way he said was scary and I thought, we did something seriously wrong. I asked how to go to Library chowk? He said, “Either walk for 2 KM or take a taxi for 5 Km long way”. Phew… It was not that serious. We preferred to walk as the weather was awesome and wanted to be little relaxed. On the way to library chowk, we took breakfast and reached at chowk in around 30 minutes. We enquired about bus to Nayan Bag but no one was sure about bus timing.

Yamuna Near Nayan Bag, taken from bus.

 In 5 minutes, we got a traveler going to Pantwari Directly. We paid 200/person till Pantwari and started our comfortable journey at 9:30 AM. Nayan Bag is around 40 KM fromMasuri and route is beautiful (Provided your Pilot is slow). At around 11 AM we reached Nayan Bag and driver stayed for lunch. We were expecting to leave Nayan bag soon but driver waited for a local passenger for 30 minutes and we could start from Nayan bag at 12:15 PM. Though, it was little frustrating but we should respect the local guys as they are very polite, helping and running their business. So, local passengers are important for them. Pantwari was only 15KM from Nayan Bag, route is beautiful and we reached Pantwari before 1.00 PM.

Day 2: 23^rdFeb 18 (Pantwari-Base camp)

Pantwari is a small and beautiful village. Food and some stay options are available here, if coming at evening. Everyone is habitual of trekkers and offer a warm welcome. They will give you information in detail, if you will ask. Don’t hesitate; they are simple and loving people so ask for local culture or any information you need.

Starting Point in Pantwari

Note: There is a small Nag Temple in Pantwari (Not the one trek is named after it) where you can fill your water bottles. After start of the trek, you will find many small routes which villagers use to go to their farms. Don’t get confuse, route goes to left is for a small village, take right route and make sure the right side valley is always visible to you till Nag Tibba peak. You will not be lost for sure. Road is also there and if you hire a car, it will save your around 1 hour difficult trek. I don’t think guide is needed as the trek route is well defined and populated. So, you can ask for the route in regular intervals. Water is the biggest problem on this trek. After Pantwari, there are two more water sources which are very near to starting point. After the goat village, there are no water sources. So carry plenty of water.

               

Pantwari, when looked back.

We filled our water bottles (2 lt/head) and started our trek at around 1:25 PM. Day was sunny, route was very dry and brown without forest for today’s trek. So, it was getting little difficult and boring. Though, the village, when looked back was looking beautiful.  

Take Rest here, a watch tower

We were crossing the road in every 100-150 meters trek and soon reached to a point where a small hut is constructed and you can take a rest. We stayed there for 15 minutes and captured a few snaps. Trek was almost vertical (Or we might be feeling due to heavy bags we had) but cool air made this little easy. Soon, we reached to a first water point of the trek and refilled our bottles. After little more trek, we saw a board showing us the route to Goat Village and around 4 PM we reached to goat village. This is the last water option but we had our bottles filled so did not stop here. We were misguided that water is available at base camp as well. Here we saw a gate under construction and it was the start of the jungle. Now, we started feeling like trekking in Himalaya. 

When I see that beautiful red flowered tree, I quickly reminded myself, “Oh, this is Burans. My favorite Himalayan Tree.” 

It reminded me the trek to Har Ki Dun where I had seen it first time.

Entering into Dense forest

This jungle is full of life. Hundreds of birds were chirping and big Himalayan vultures were hunting so we started capturing them. Trek was getting more vertical so we decided that we will trek for an hour and then will camp wherever it is possible. Going through the dense jungle, we reached to a small meadow at around 5 PM.  

Base Camp, before Nag Temple

Considering this a base camp, we pitched our tent and explored the place. We only three trekkers were there guessing which should be Nag tibba peak?

Base Camp, our tent

                There are plenty of dry woods available (If no rain) so we collected quickly and started camp-fire. Akshay brought to us homemade “pooriyan” (deep-fried bread) and in great hunger, they taste awesome. Especially, when roasted directly on fire and eating with pickle. After having awesome dinner and enjoying camp-fire, we gone in our tent for the much needed rest.

Getting Ready for Dinner

Camp fire, after dinner

 Day 3: 24^thFeb 18 (Base camp – Nag Mandir – Peak – Base camp) – Adventure Day

When Akshay came out of tent in the morning, he saw only one of my floaters outside of tent (Yes, I trek in floaters in all Himalayan Treks. Shoes are high discomfort that I don’t wear even in office. Especially for this trek, I had bought Crocs floaters a month ago and kind of precious for me). When I heard this, I came out of tent as it was a big worry for me. All the utensils were scattered all around and one floater was missing. Seems, there were wild animals in the night. I started searching for lost floater all around, especially on wild animal’s treks. After half an hour, I found it around 200 meters from the tent. Phew… it was safe.

Maggi Breakfast

        

   We cooked Maggi in breakfast with the remaining water and assuming water will be available in temple, we started trek at around 8:30 AM, leaving our tent here only. Target was to trek till peak and come back before evening.

Ready For the Trek

L to R: Keshaw and Vivek 

When we started trek, we realized how difficult it would have been if we would have tried yesterday. Even without bags, our speed was very slow. Trek is under dense forest and weather was cloudy so we were feeling cold. After one hour or so, rain started as predicted by weather forecast agencies. It was not continue rain and we were on our path without any problem. In 2 hours, we reached to Nag Temple and snow fall started by then but not very heavy. 

Swarg Rohnini Range from Base camp

The place is beautiful and Himalayan ranges were now visible. But, we did not found water here!!!! A big reason to worry. So, we decided to trek till peak and go back to goat village. That means, we had to trek whole day without water. We looked at our resources and found matchstick in medical kit and two steel bottles. We could see snow patches in left side trail and assumed it would be little more snow upside. After, 30 minutes, we found a big snow patch. So, we collected snow in our steel bottles and then started fire.

Collecting Snow, Mission "The Water"

 Making water from snow was not easy as we thought, but somehow manage to collect more than half liter of water from snow (Though, our bottles got black permanently), enough for the back trek as we did not feel thrust so far due to weather.

In Next 40 minutes, we came out of jungle and Nag Tibba peak was 50 meters in our right. National Flag along with Religious flags was there which confirmed that we are reached to our destination. In same time, snow fall started. 

It felt like Nag Tibba Peak was waiting to welcome us. It was increasing and as we reached on the peak, snow fall was in full flow. 

Akshay and Vivek, the chilling moment

Turning Green into white

The Panoramic View, from top

At the peak

Aahhhaa!!!! What could be better than that!! We were seeing the brown patches getting white and trees getting loaded with snow, in front of our eyes. We enjoyed the snow fall for an hour and started back trek at around 2PM. Unfortunately, could see the long ranges from peak due to weather. 

Back trek was easy but the route was disappeared due to snow. 

Nag Devta Temple

We went to Temple in return and after temple, weather again changed. In no time, it was fog everywhere and that too so dense that we couldn’t see ahead more than five meters. Snowfall was converted into rain and route became slippery. When we came back, the base camp was fully occupied with trekkers. Around 40 tents and hundreds of trekkers were already come.Good that we pitched our tent in corner and little out of the crowed. Good that we did not come on Saturday.

              

        

Vivek was restless due to water shortage. He insisted us to get water from goat village which was the nearest source. But, looking at our no-interest, he himself started down trek. We were appreciating his efforts while resting in tent. In around two hours, he came back with 3 liters of water and it was dark outside. Our next target was to cook dinner, but all the woods were wet due to rain and we had no hope to start fire with them. Akshay, our relationship manager, took the responsibility of maggi along with soup. He went into a nearby tent where food was getting cooked for their customers. He talked to them and as expected, they offered us food, soup water and everything. I love Himalaya for the kind people.We insisted to cook only our maggi on their gas stove and had a wonderful dinner with soup.

From Base Camp, An Awesome evening.

    Rest of the night, it was raining, sometimes heavily. Thanks to Vivek’s waterproof tent, we had a wonderful and comfortable night.

Day 4: 25^thFeb 18 (Base camp – Pantwari – Dehradun)

               

                By morning, rain stopped and we ate whatever left and ready to eat. All trekkers were getting ready to go up and we were packing our tent to go down. Slop was steep and distance we knew now, so without hurry, we enjoyed our back trek. Weather was clean today as on first day, trek was easy and soon we crossed goat village and reached to the water point. After some rest, when we started again, a local villager joined us. He gave us the information about the area, importance of nag temple for locals and his believes, local culture and farming in village. When he noticed that Vivek is struggling due to knee pain, he offered to take his bag. When Vivke refused the offer, he insisted and took his bag. We comfortably completed the remaining trek and when we offered to pay for his service, he politely denied and moved on his path as we never met. What kind of people they are? So kind, so polite, we must learn from them, what humanity means.

                In Pantwari, we had wonderful lunch in a small hotel. Not much verity but full lunch for all of us including curd, a glass of milk and tea for Akshay, only in 240 RS Total. We got a shared Taxi till Nayan Bag in 50 Rs. Per head. From Nayan Bag, we again got a Shared Taxi in 130/head. As usual, return journey was hectic, especially because we got a pilot in our taxi instead of driver. I was already feeling sick and before Masuri, I vomited. Took little rest and rest of the journey till Dehradun was as usual. We reached Dehradun by evening and booked a hotel near station in 1000 RS for all of us. Little walk in the streets followed by a good, simple dinner and then good night.

Total Trek Cost:

Pre-booked travel cost including Air Fares: 5500 INR per head

From Dehradun to Nag Tibba and Back: 1300 INR Per head. (Including Hotel Charges and dinner in Dehradun)

Other Route: We also thought to go back from a different route which is from Nag Devta Temple to Devalsari. But it is 14 KM from Temple to Devalsari Village and route is not very common. So we dropped the idea, though we heard it is beautiful and less steep route.

Day 5: 26^thFeb 18 (Dehradun - Delhi)

                It was Jan Shatabdi Express we had booked for return journey in morning 5AM. We spent rest of the time of journey discussing about the trek and next plan, the good and bad, little politics and society. It was a short journey and reached to Delhi at 11:30 AM. I said bye to Akshay and Vivek, they left for the Airport. Akshay had a flight to Pune and Vivek had a flight to Bengaluru. I had to stay in Noida with my wife’s family, my little kid Parth was waiting for me.

PLEASE DO NOT POLLUTE THE PLACE, IT IS BEAUTIFUL AND LET IT BE BEAUTIFUL. PLEASE, PLEASE TAKE BACK YOUR PLASTIC WRAPPERS BACK TO DEHRADUN, DO NOT LITTER PLASTIC THERE.